Zebra & Impala

Often, visitors choose to stay in one of the many privately owned properties surrounding the park and entering as day visitors which makes sense, all accommodation options within the main borders of the park are owned and managed by SAN Parks, so quality can vary quite substantially. From the much loved, and sometimes hated, but reasonably affordable, chalets & bungalows, and more recently glamping tents, in the rest camps, to more luxury, and expensive, options operated in partnership with private concerns.

Private Game Lodge

The lowveld, as the region surrounding the park is known, has so much more than just the Kruger. Hoedspruit and Hazyview are blessed with plenty of private accommodation options, from luxury to budget, and are both located close to access gates. Hoedspruit is a little over 30km from Orpen gate and Hazyview is even closer to Phabeni gate at a little under 15km. Both towns also have good shopping facilities, although, the parks shops found in all the rest camps are well stocked with all the necessities, and are most reasonably priced too.

Best Times to Visit

In January, after a good rainy season, the Kruger Park is really green and lush, with fast flowing rivers and abundant water. There’s plenty of places for prey and predators alike to hide, so game viewing isn’t at it’s best. Nevertheless, if spending more than a day in the park there is a good chance of spotting most of the Big 5, although seeing the ever elusive Leopard is always a special treat.

Lioness

The summer months can be hot in the lowveld and it’s also the rainy season, so grey skies and violent thunderstorm can be the order of the day, not always the best for photography, but, the African bush after a summer storm has a special quality. Water is abundant, so the water holes are less essential for the animals, who are more widely scattered in the thick bush. Many veteran Kruger lovers prefer the dry, and cooler winter months. At this time the bush is less dense, water is less abundant and the animals are more concentrated around waterholes, making viewing them considerably easier.

Kruger Park Elephant

The Kruger is home to one of the largest elephant, impala and zebra populations in the country, so they are almost guaranteed. Also good numbers of buffalo, hyena, giraffe and even rhinos are to be found by the sharp eyed.

Giraffe

 

Not to forget the river dwellers, hippos and some HUGE crocodiles.

 

Nile Crocodile

The Panorama Route

The area surrounding the Kruger Park is absolutely filled with incredible sights and hidden secret places. The Panorama Route, which runs roughly parallel with the park, to the west, is easily accessible and boasts plenty of accommodation options and some stunning natural wonders, like the Blyde River Canyon. It’s the 3rd deepest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon in the USA and the Fish River Canyon in Namibia, and it’s the largest “green” canyon on the planet.

Blyde River Canyon

Other must see spots are the awesome God’s Window, Bourkes Luck Potholes, the historic gold mining town of Pilgrim’s Rest and the many stunningly beautiful waterfalls along the way.

Bourkes Luck Potholes

Fly Direct From Frankfurt Germany

As of 15 November 2022, Eurowings Discover operates up to three (3) weekly flights between Frankfurt and Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport (KMIA), with a short stopover in Windhoek, Namibia on the way.

Eurowings

This makes Eurowings Discover is so far the only carrier operating direct flights between South Africa’s Province of Mpumalanga and Germany. This new route now makes it so much easier for travellers from all over Europe to fly direct (almost) to the Kruger National Park, bypassing Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town altogether.

Contact Us For Advice

Contact Us

We hope this short post has given you some idea of why you should consider planning to experience more than just the Kruger National Park, but the Panorama Route as well. Let’s face it, this is perhaps a once in a lifetime experience for many, you really want to make it count. African Welcome are kind of experts on the Kruger Park, we also really really know South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, East and Central Africa. Chat to Kathi for advice planning YOUR African Safari, or just to talk about Africa: tours@africanwelcomesafaris.com

African Safaris  – COVID-19 Entry requirements by country

The sheer expanse, diverse beauty, wide open spaces, fresh air, sunshine and open vehicle game drives,  make the African bush the best post-lockdown destination for travellers who are looking for a much needed breakaway well away from large crowds and all the stress from the last year.  An African Safari is just what the doctor ordered.

It can be exceptionally overwhelming trying to keep up with the constant changing entry requirements and protocols for each country, and we would like to assist with taking the stress out of your travel planning by laying out each countries current COVID-19 entry requirements.  We’ll keep this post updated as the requirements change.

Updated 17.05.2022

South Africa 

Table Mountain, Cape Town

All international travellers from around the world can now visit South Africa and will be allowed entry. South Africa has lifted almost all lockdown restrictions. The only remaining COVID-19 restrictions are as follows:

Health screening and COVID-19 protocols

• Unvaccinated visitors entering South Africa will need to present a negative COVID-19 PCR test not older than 72 hours or a negative antigen COVID-19 test not older than 48 hours from the time of departure for South Africa.
• In order for the PCR test to be considered valid, it must have the name and signature of the certified medical practitioner who conducted the test. In order for the antigen COVID-19 test to be considered valid, it must be performed by a medical practitioner, registered public health authority or accredited/approved laboratory.
• Your test result must be printed (not on your phone) and in English.
• Vaccinated arrivals who have at least one dose of a vaccine approved for use by the World Health Organization must present their valid vaccination certificates and are not required to present a negative PCR or antigen COVID-19 test.
• Travellers who can produce a valid certificate of a positive PCR COVID-19 test for a test date less than 90 days prior to the date of arrival and more than 10 days prior to the date of arrival, along with a signed letter from a registered health care provider stating that the traveller (1) has fully recovered from COVID-19, (2) is not experiencing any new symptoms and (3) is fit to travel will be allowed entry to South Africa.
• International travellers who don’t comply with the above regulations will need to undergo antigen testing for COVID-19 upon arrival. Travellers who test positive for COVID-19 in the antigen test will be allowed entry to South Africa and will have to self-isolate for ten days only if they are experiencing COVID-19 symptoms.
• All travellers who are under 12 years of age are exempt from the above.

The wearing of face masks in all public indoor places is required but masks are no longer required when people are outdoors.

Namibia 

Damaraland, Namibia

Namibia’s borders are open to travellers from all countries.

Health screening and COVID-19 protocols

• Fully vaccinated arrivals will NOT require a negative PCR test. They will, however, be required to present their valid vaccination certificate on arrival.
• Fully vaccinated is defined as two weeks since the second dose (or one dose in the case of the Johnson & Johnson vaccine) of a vaccine approved by the World Health Organisation.
• All unvaccinated arrivals (including children five years of age and older) must present a valid negative COVID-19 PCR test that is not older than 72 hours at the time of entry into Namibia.
• Antigen Rapid Diagnostic Test results are not accepted for entry into Namibia.
• Upon arrival in Namibia, all travellers will go through a health screening and temperature testing procedure and will be required to submit their full travel itinerary

Trusted Travel System for PCR test results

• Namibia uses the Trusted Travel Platform to approve the COVID-19 PCR tests taken by unvaccinated visitors 72 hours before travelling to Namibia.
• Go to the Trusted Travel website to find a list of accredited laboratories.
• Unvaccinated travellers to Namibia with test results from non-Trusted Travel compliant laboratories must upload a copy of their COVID-19 PCR test results on the Global Haven System for authentication.
• Make sure you have a hard copy of your test results in case you encounter technical difficulties at your ports of entry or departure.
• If you need assistance with the Trusted Travel and Global Haven systems, send an email to globalhaven@panabios.org.

Mandatory quarantine

Mandatory quarantine is not required, unless:

• an unvaccinated visitor’s PCR test is older than 72 hours. In this event, the traveller will be required to quarantine at their own expense pending the negative result of a PCR test.

Other measures

There is a nationwide curfew from 22h00 and 04h00.

Zimbabwe 

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe’s international airports are open to leisure travellers from all countries.

Health screening and COVID-19 protocols

• Unvaccinated or partially vaccinated arrivals 12 years of age and older must present a valid negative COVID-19 PCR test that is not older than 48 hours from the time of departure for Zimbabwe. The PCR test must be obtained from a recognized facility in order for it to be considered valid.
• Arrivals who can provide proof of being fully vaccinated are not required to present a negative PCR COVID-19 Clearance Certificate.
• Fully vaccinated is defined as one dose of a single dose vaccine such as Johnson & Johnson or both doses of a two-dose vaccine such as Astra Zenica or Pfizer.
• Children below the age of 12 are exempt from vaccination and PCR test requirements.

Zambia 

Zambia, like Zimbabwe, is also open to all foreign visitors. Depending on nationality, some travellers to Zambia can enter without a visitor visa while others can either obtain a visitor visa on arrival or apply for an e-visa before travelling to Zambia. Consult the Zambian Department of Immigration website for more information or ask your African Welcome Safaris travel consultant for details.

Health screening and COVID-19 protocols

• Currently, fully vaccinated passengers arriving in Zambia are exempt from pre-departure COVID-19 testing certification requirements. Passengers must provide proof of a valid vaccination record, i.e. certification of a completed programme of approved vaccination.  Passengers will be required to complete a health declaration form upon arrival and will be subject to screening and temperature checks at point of entry.
• Arrivals who are not fully vaccinated, will need to present a certificate demonstrating a negative COVID-19 PCR test for a sample collected within 72 hours before departure. Tests must be issued by a designated and accredited laboratory in the country of origin. Failure to present such a certificate may result in passengers being denied boarding by the airline or refused immigration clearance in Zambia.
• In case of a positive result, self-quarantine at the passengers cost will be mandatory in accordance with local health guidelines.
• Children under 12 years of age are exempt and will not need to produce a negative COVID-19 test on arrival.

Botswana 

Mokoro Safari, Okavango Delta

On 9 November 2020, air travel resumed at Sir Seretse Khama International Airport in Gaborone, Maun, and Kasane International Airports. Airlines servicing these three airports are Airlink and private charter flights.

Health screening and COVID-19 protocols

• Travellers must present proof of full vaccination. Travellers who are overdue for a booster shot are not considered fully vaccinated.
• Travellers who have not been fully vaccinated must present a valid negative COVID-19 PCR test result that was conducted within 72 hours of departure for Botswana and will be vaccinated at their port of entry free of charge.
• Travellers who are are unable to provide a valid negative PCR test upon arrival will be required to undergo COVID-19 PCR testing at their port of entry and, in the event they test positive, will be required to isolate within the district of the port of entry at their own expense.
• Children under the age of 12 are exempt.

Tanzania

Great Migration, Serengeti

Tanzania has been open to travellers from all countries since 18 May 2020. When the ban on international flights into and out of Tanzania was lifted, the government directed all tourism entities to designate and adequately train Covid-19 officers to liaise with the country’s Health Ministry. All hotels and tourist facilities went through a COVID-19 certification process and new standard operating procedures were introduced to provide a safe environment for locals and tourists.

Health screening and COVID-19 protocols

• Within 24 hours before arriving in Tanzania, all visitors must complete an online Traveller Surveillance Form. Upon completing the online form, visitors will receive a confirmation code, including a Unique Health Code, which they will be asked to present during primary screening upon arrival in Tanzania.
• All fully vaccinated visitors are no longer required to present a negative Real-Time Polymerase Chain Reaction (RT-PCR) test or Nucleic Acid Amplification Test (NAATs). They will be asked to present their valid vaccination certificate with a QR code upon arrival. Only WHO-approved vaccines are recognised.
• Visitors who are not fully vaccinated or who are unvaccinated must present a negative COVID-19 RT-PCR or NAATs test result with a QR code taken 72 hours before departure.
• Children aged five years and younger are exempt from RT-PCR and Rapid Antigen Test requirements.
• Visitors originating from countries listed at https://www.moh.go.tz are required to undergo a COVID-19 Rapid Antigen Test on arrival at their own expense. If their rapid antigen test yields a positive result, a follow-up RT- PCR test will be conducted for confirmation. While they wait for their results, they will be allowed to self-isolate.
• We advise visitors who require a Rapid Test to avoid delays on arrival by paying for the test prior to their arrival in Tanzania. They can do this by using the automatically generated control number they receive after completing the Traveller Surveillance Form.
• On arrival, all visitors will undergo temperature screening and must complete a Health Declaration Form.
• Arrivals will also receive health information cards with toll-free numbers. They will be advised to self-monitor for symptoms and signs.
• In the event a visitor to Tanzania develops COVID-19, they will be tested and treated at designated health facilities at their own cost.
• Face masks are mandatory in all public places and social distancing is required at all times.

Departing Tanzania 

Travellers who need to undergo COVID-19 testing before leaving Tanzania should plan to get tested 5 days prior to departure to allow enough time for test results to be received.

COVID-19 PCR testing is available in

• Dar Es Salaam ($60 per person per test). Test results are available between 24 and 48 hours.
• Serengeti Seronera ($75 per person per test and availability depending on the guest’s location and logistics). Test results are available between 48 and 72 hours.
• Karatu ($60 per person per test and $15 per person per test payable directly in cash). Test results are available between 48 and 72 hours.
• Arusha ($60 per person per test). Test results are available between 48 and 72 hours.
• Zanzibar ($150 per person per test). Test results are available between 48 and 72 hours.

Kenya

Masai Warriors, Masai Mara

From 1 December 2021, all inbound travellers to Kenya who are 18 years and older will be required to present proof of full vaccination. The following travellers are exempt:

• Travellers with medical conditions that preclude vaccination must provide a letter from an accredited medical practitioner specifying the medical reason for preclusion.
• Travellers who have recovered from an active COVID-19 infection in the preceding 90 days must provide a letter from an accredited medical practitioner detailing their recovery.

Fully vaccinated travellers are not required to provide proof of a negative PCR test. Their vaccination certificate is sufficient.

However, if you are travelling to Kenya from or transiting Botswana, Eswatini, Lesotho, Malawi, Mozambique, Namibia, South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Ghana and Nigeria, you will be required to take a Rapid Test which will be provided to you free of charge upon arrival in Kenya.

For unvaccinated travellers, the following applies

• You will need to obtain a negative COVID-19 PCR test result taken within 72 hours of flying. Arrivals below the age of five are exempt.
• On arrival in Kenya, you will need to take a rapid antigen test at your own cost.

Health screening and COVID-19 protocols

All arrivals in Kenya, regardless of where they are travelling from, are required to:

• Go online and upload their vaccination certificate or negative PCR test certificate (depending on their vaccination status) onto the Trusted Travel or Global Haven website before arriving in Kenya. They will receive a QR code which, together with their vaccination certificate or negative PCR test certificate, they need to present to the Kenyan authorities upon arrival in Kenya.
• fill out an online “Travelers Health Surveillance Form” for the purposes of contact tracing 24 hours before arriving in Kenya. Make sure you print the QR code here, too, so you can show it to the authorities on arrival in Kenya.
• undergo health screening for flu-like symptoms on arrival.

Mandatory quarantine

Travellers whose rapid test shows a positive result will be required to take a PCR test and isolate pending the result. If the PCR test is positive, the traveller will need to quarantine for 10 days at a government-approved isolation facility at their own cost.

Other COVID-19 safety measures

Passengers leaving Kenya for destinations and transit airports that require PCR tests must have a Trusted Travel (TT) QR code for their COVID-19 test certificates.

New E-Visa protocols

Kenya’s Immigration Services is in the process of fully automating its visa issuance process. As such, from 1 January 2021, visas will no longer be issued at the airport or any immigration border. Instead, all passengers from countries that require a visa to enter Kenya will be required to apply for and obtain an e-visa online before boarding their flight

Rwanda

Kigali International Airport remains open.

Health screening and COVID-19 protocols

• Negative rapid antigen test results taken within 72 hours of departure are required to board a plane to Kigali, and an additional rapid test will be taken upon arrival at own cost.
• Travelers departing Rwanda must test (rapid or PCR depending on requirements at destination) negative for COVID-19 within 72 hours before departure. All departing Rwandans must be vaccinated.  Please note that if your destination is the United States, you will need to receive a rapid test one calendar day prior to your departure (stricter than Rwandan exit requirements).
• Masks/face coverings are not mandatory outdoors but are recommended indoors.
• The Government of Rwanda has a zero-tolerance policy for exporting positive COVID-19 cases. If you test positive for COVID-19 upon arrival or during your time in Rwanda (even if you are fully vaccinated), the severity of your symptoms will determine whether you are isolated in a government-run treatment center or a hotel at your own cost. You will not be permitted to leave Rwanda until you receive a negative test result.
• All requests for visa extensions for residents and/or tourists should be addressed to the Rwanda Directorate General of Immigration and Emigration. Their website is here.
• Standard social distancing protocols, regular hand sanitisation and the wearing of masks are mandatory.

In Africa, we always have time …

We are looking forward to welcoming overseas visitors to our shores and we can’t wait to take you on that bush-break safari or island-style getaway you’ve been dreaming of. In light of the global pandemic and the changing face of how we travel and interact, we would like to remind you to relax and enjoy “African time “- which operates in much slower and more relaxed pace

Visitors can expect to be asked to follow standard Covid-19 protocols such as social distancing, wearing face masks in public places, regular hand washing and sanitising. They, like all citizens of the country they are visiting, may also be asked to complete health questionnaires and submit to temperature testing and health screening on arrival at airports and on checking into their safari lodge or boutique hotel, when visiting shops, entering restaurants and taking in tourist attractions.

This may lead to delays. Our suggestion is to take a deep breath, enjoy the moment and remind yourself that you are on holiday….there is no rush…… it is Africa and it is waiting for you  !!

AFRICAN WELCOME SAFARIS SIGHT INSPECTION REVIEW  Author – Alex Simon – Co Director

I started writing this review whilst flying in the luxurious Pilatus PC 12 Jet belonging to the wealthy South African Oppenheimer family.

The flight path was from Tswalu in the Kalahari to Cape Town. My partner and I accepted the invitation of a two-night all-inclusive sight inspection visit to Tswalu Kalahari. When my partner told me that we had been invited, I was not quite sure what to expect as its reputation was only exceeded by its own.

To have experienced this magnificent and opulent journey to Tswalu first-hand has given me a great understanding of what next level luxury is. Let me say here that the Southern African Safari product is huge. Thousands of fabulous, well run, elegant and intimate Safari lodges spread out over many great wilderness reserves compete for business. Tswalu Kalahari , however , has always just stood out. Towering high above the rest.

Portraying a magical ring of exuberant and opulent luxury, deep within the distant solitary red sands of the mystical Kalahari. Tales of pangolins with elegant scales, majestic black maned lions and fascinating meercats drew fantastic imagery in my mind. Visions of a place born of great wealth filtered through my thoughts. Diamond fortunes that glitter alongside the mountains of pure gold. Diamonds that have been transformed and returned to its ancient parent. The dry African sand drinks thirstily from these shining gems. Vast desert lands fatigued by exploitative carelessness. Gently allowing this restorative energy to soak back into its billions of ancient grains. Allowing its living companions to thrive magnificently in all their glory. A place fit for Sultans and Kings to indulge in the splendid lands of the Kalahari.

OUR EXPERIENCE AT MOTSE TSWALU

We packed the night before and set out at 05h45 the next morning to the airport for our 06h50 check in time. We enter the plush Execujet lounge and are immediately welcomed by the staff. Filled croissants, fresh fruit kebabs and coffee are served. Four Americans arrive and we introduce ourselves.

They had spent 4 nights in Cape Town, then they had planned  4 nights at Tswalu Tarkuni and then the Kruger Park. They were from Cape Cod and were thoroughly enjoying South Africa. A short time later our Pilot introduces himself and announces that we are ready to board. Our bags are whisked off as we make our way across the tarmac. I saw some tired looking jets first, thinking we may be flying on one of them. Then as we made our way I thought “oh my goodness “when the pilot showed us the Pilatus. The fabulous sleek and stylish shining silver Pilatus PC 12 stands ready for take-off. The 4 Americans with us looked as delighted as they board. On entering we are met by a very plush interior with polished wood and leather seats.

The Americans take the 4 seats facing each other and we take the other two behind them. The pilot settles us in and points out the snacks and drinks area. Some safety talk and he takes his controls with the co-pilot seated next to him. A smooth and agile take-off sees us climb in the pressurised aircraft to cruising altitude. It is quite remarkable that this direct flight 2 hour takes one from a big city to such a remote place in such a short and convenient way. After a smooth and very luxurious flight , the pilot announces to fasten our seatbelts.

He starts his decent and the aircraft gets heaved and bumped around by the heat air pockets coming from the desert. Tswalu has a private 2030-meter tarred runway that allows us to land smoothly in the middle of the red sand desert. As we say our thanks to the pilot, we feel the 35-degree dry heat in the air. A welcome temperature after leaving a cold and rainy Cape Town. A short walk across the tarmac takes us to a thatch roofed lounge area where we are warmly greeted by the staff on duty. Hot towels are immediately offered, and a bar area filled with small quiches, biltong and dried sausages, a local delicacy. Immaculate and luxurious bathrooms are found just behind the bar area. Part of the Tswalu experience, which is included in the price, is a private land rover ,tracker and ranger for each party. We say our goodbyes to the Americans as they board their Land rover. They are going to stay at the exclusive Tarkuni Lodge.

Our tall ranger then comes to us and introduces himself as Kalamari. Quite a unique name ! He introduces us to our tracker Ben, who then takes the tracker seat on the front end of the bonnet. They will stay with us for all the game activities. I have been on a few Safaris before, but never had exclusive use of a vehicle. I must say that it is quite a treat. A sense of comfort in that privacy sort of takes over. We settle into the raised seats behind Kalamari. I did not know then, how well we were all going to get to know each other. Kalamari tells us that a 40-minute drive will take us to Motse Lodge.

 Motse Lodge

Feeling a little tired from all the excitement we arrive at Motse and are met by smiling staff offering hot towels to freshen up. Then a soothing cocktail is handed to us. We make our way to the lounge area which is meticulously designed to blend in with the Kalahari. High thatch roof with big wooden beams and then luxurious couches are available throughout the deck area.

My eye sweeps across the two crystal clear swimming pools surrounded by the red desert sand. A short distance further is a waterhole where two warthogs and a couple of large antelope are quenching their thirst. We too quench our thirsts as this unique environment captivate our beings.

The endless red sands, toughened antelope walking across the desert, then the silence that flows from this most isolated place. A sense of peace makes one feel at home. The charming manager then shows us to our room. There are only 9 rooms at Motse Lodge and ours was everything I was expecting and more.

Again, a lovely thatch roof, four poster bed, and a viewing deck overlooking the waterhole. I really liked the outdoor sunbed that allowed for an afternoon nap. At night it is used for star gazing. One found a fully stocked bar in the room (all drinks are included in the price ), a great selection of Darjeeling Tea, rusks, dried sausage, complimentary cakes and a welcoming letter.

The two staff members who had also assisted us to our room asked what our drinks of preference were. As we were unpacking, they left and returned a short while later and re stocked the fridge and bar with our preferred beers and wine. As we have an appetite after the journey to Tswalu, we ordered an excellent Croque Madame which we chose to eat on the deck of our room. It was brought to us promptly and done to perfection topped with a Sauce Mornay and a pickled red onion salad. Whilst lunching we saw a large herd of wildebeest coming to drink from the waterhole.

A great sense of peace came about us as we indulged in this fantastic landscape, as the afternoon sun warmed the air. I then chose to have a nap on the large and very comfortable sunbed draped with shade cloth , which was a refreshing choice after an exciting journey so far.

 OUR KALAHARI SAFARI EXPERIENCE WITH KALAMARI

 To have a private Land rover available to you exclusively allows for a wonderful sense of privilege. A large 4×4 Land rover perfectly suited to the loose sands of the Kalahari.

Twice daily three-hour Safaris made sure we had ample time in the bush. We would meet our Ranger at the agreed time for each Safari Kalamari at the wheel, large rifle resting on the dashboard and our tracker Ben perched on a seat on the front end of the bonnet. Off we drove into the vast desert, in anticipation of the days game viewing.

It is almost a spiritual time as one reflects on the quietness of the desert compared to rambunctious traffic snarl ups of a big city. We would embark on long conversations with Kalamari, ranging from his upbringing, past work experience, the Oppenheimers to politics. Then we would pass a herd on Gnu. Kalamari enjoyed verbalising the name of the animal in exaggerated fashion by raising the tone of his voice and slipping out GGGnnnnnuuuuu ! This became part of our game drive experience each time we saw Gnu. The Kalahari reserve is divided into two sections.

The larger covering about 100 00 ha where the species range from Pangolin to Meerkats. The smaller one at about 20 000 ha has the black maned lion. There is a public dirt road that runs between the two and one needs to go through a set of gates to enter the reserves.

Our game drives alternated between the two. Kalamari was an excellent driver who showed complete control of his vehicle as he navigated it through thick sand at a good speed to allow for our passage not being bogged down by the sand. Sliding from side to side as we climbed a steep dune.

As the sun set, Kalamari stopped the vehicle at the summit of the dune which offered sweeping views over the desert as far as the eye could see. It was sun downer time. Ben jumped off his trackers seat and went to the back of the vehicle to fetch a cooler box. They set up a table at the front of a vehicle and Ben poured me an ice-cold beer. My partner was offered some good red wine. Then lovely canapes and biltong were brought out for us all to enjoy. Small quiches and cucumber and salmon sandwiches. An excellent chocolate desert followed. The moment was magical, as we all watched the sun set in a display of deep reds and oranges.

My beer had gone down with such savour that I was quite ready for another. Kalamari swiftly reached into the cooler bag and offered it to me with his charming and gracious smile. If I were to compare the other Safari regions I have visited, such as Kruger, this experience was quite different. I much preferred this one.

Unique terrain, which I should repeat, was simply breath taking with its red sands and pastel colours. Unlike Kruger the Safari felt significantly more relaxed, with less anticipation of seeing the Big 5. We were very alone out there with no other vehicles to be seen allowing for such a sense of privacy.

Our venture out was to engage with all manner of creature to be found and one would marvel at its unique survival skills in dry and hot environment. Kalamari and Ben would discuss with us what viewing interested us. We decided that Lion, cheetah, pangolin, wild dogs and meercats would be the species that we would look for. Our rangers were specialist trackers and would be able to work through square kilometres of an area allowing for the animals to be found.

 WILD DOGS

 On our sunset Safari drive, Kalamari was in contact with the land rover the Americans we flew up with were on.

They had found a pack of wild dogs on the hunt. The other vehicle came close to ours and the Americans looked at us with a smile. One of the American men pointed at us in surprised recognition and said quite loudly “Alex and Kathi? “in his inimitable American jarl. This caused some laughter at this recognition as we smiled and waved at each other.

The pack was some 15 dogs strong and were cruising almost effortlessly across the dunes. Kalamari explained that their long thin legs moved in such a sophisticated way which was designed to conserve their energy. Again, the moment was infused with wonder for us, as these dogs prowled this surreal landscape. We followed them for quite some time, until they disappeared into inaccessible terrain. Kalamari told us that in the past he had seen the pack attack a large warthog. Stopping the car, he asked Ben to show us the clip he had taken on his phone. It was quite gruesome to see the relentless and precise attack taking place. We carried on into the night back towards Motse thinking about this time we had spent with this pack of wild dogs. Visions remain of the pack moving effortlessly across the desert night after night in search of their meal.

 MEERKATS AND THE MALORI SLEEPOUT

 On our morning Safari drive, we asked to see the Meerkats. They have a habituated colony that was to be found not far from the Malori sleepout.

As we passed the sleepout, we asked if we could stop and have a look. Kalamari explained that the sleepout had to be booked in advance and then great preparations were made to create a most romantic and unique sleeping environment. Raised on a deck with a thatch roof, guests have a king size bed and can spend the evening alone in the middle of the desert. One is brought there by your ranger and then snacks, and sundowners are served. A chef then prepares a private dinner to be had under the stars.

One is then left to enjoy the evening. The outdoor toilet caused us a laugh, as it was free standing facing the great expanse. Although this toilet is far more luxurious than digging a hole in the ground! It must be a magical experience to have such a sleep out.

A short drive later, we are greeted by a solitary ranger wandering through the warm desert. Kalamari explains that as we spoke the day before about the meerkats the ranger had been sent to keep track of the Meerkats for us.

We disembark and walk through the thick red sand towards this delightful colony some 20 strong. The morning temperature is a good 30 Degrees Celsius already. What a wonderful experience it was to see these most active and alert creatures going about their daily business. The mobs and gangs of meerkats chirruped and growled as they dug furiously with their claws.

We were told that their fingers were long claws that were used in combination with their strong tail for balance. The dark rings around their eyes protected them from the harsh sun. Membranes on their eyes protected them for the dirt being dug up. Every moment one would stop digging and look around with great intensity for any danger. Clearly, we were not a threat as they paid us no attention. What lovely photo opportunities there were with the red hues of the sands, fawn coloured meerkats and magnificent camelthorn trees.

BLACK MANED LIONS

 The next morning Safari plans were to track down the lions. This meant crossing into the smaller of the two Kalahari reserves owned by Tswalu.

We arrived at the gate with its hundreds of kilometre long fences on each side. Crossing the sand road, Ben jumps off the tracker seat and unlocks the other gate. A sense of excitement emerges as we are now in lion country! We notice that the terrain is rockier than the other reserve as we swerve through the loose sands.

After some driving and more Gnuuuu, Ben points towards a thicket of Camelthorn trees in a depression some way away. Ben tells us there are lions there. I squint my eyes in the direction and I just cannot see any lions. Amazing eyesight these trackers! As we round a corner, a steep mountain of thousands of red rocks sweeps upwards to the blue sky. Suddenly a terrified warthog scrambles ahead of us, tail pointing upwards like a radar. The animal then ascends the mountain with such incredible survival skills as its hooves rapidly find perfect landing places.

Up it scurries, and in no time its more than halfway up. Next moment we see an enormous black maned lion appears ahead casually following the warthog. The lion ignores us as we see it intently watching the warthogs progress. Kalamari explains that the warthog had made it to safety, as the lion would not be able to climb the mountain. The lion disappears into the bush as we try get closer. A short drive later we encounter the main pride lying in the shade of a Camelthorn tree. A sense of excitement rushes over us as we move towards the sleeping pride.

Kalamari navigates the car to a safe distance from the cats, but close enough to feel part of the pride. This Kalahari moment was once again magical as my mind momentarily drifted to my normal life in Cape Town behind my desk. Here we were in this most unique place spending our Friday morning with these magnificent beasts.

The hunting male has now returned to the pride as his massive frame drops onto his sleeping companion as if he were claiming his spot. This caused the sleeping lion visible irritation as he struck out with his claws and let out a thunderous roar. Nearly jumping out of my seat, the roar had such power that the hair on my neck crawled. A depth of sound that can only come from primal vocal cords. I was completely humbled by it. The desert became quite again, so incredibly quiet, as the lions settled down. After a good half hour, we bade farewell to the pride and made our way back to Motse Lodge. Looking forward to breakfast.

HORSE RIDING

 Kalamari had asked what we would like to do in the afternoon, and we asked if we could do a horse ride. Once again, he immediately arranged everything, and we set out in the afternoon towards the stables that were to be found somewhere in the red desert.

Kalamari then enquired if we had any riding experience. We told him we had spent a limited amount of time on horseback and he assured us that we would not mount the horses they used for fast rides. We arrive the stables which were neatly set out amongst the dunes, once again being greeted smiling stable staff.

The staff issued us with the correct gear and helped us mount the horses. Our guide told us that we would do a circuit through the dunes which would take an hour or so. Off we trotted as we came to adjust to the swaying roll and tumble of the mounts. Ahead, we saw a rather steep looking dune that looked like it required more than our riding experience to negotiate. Our guide assured us that we would be fine as he swept up the dune effortlessly. My partner was next, and she struck the sides of her horse with her boots and thundered up the dune like a cowgirl.

My turn now as I summoned the necessary courage. I felt the power of this steed as it glided up the dune with such force as I desperately tried to stay in the saddle. Next thing I was at the top of the dune in one piece as the others gave me a smile. By now dripping in sweat,  we again settled into the sway of the journey in the middle of this great desert.

Again, this sense of timelessness gripped me as I marvelled at the array of pastel colours and clarity that only the Kalahari offers. We passed countless skulls, and on enquiring, our guide said this was cheetah country. As we arrived back after a wonderful experience, we said our thanks and Kalamari took us back to Motse in time for high Tea.

DINING AT MOTSE LODGE

 We were aware that we would also be in for a gastronomic treat !  As the Michelin stared chef Jan Hendriks was involved in the menus. With Breakfast, lunch, high tea, and Dinner on offer each day The breakfast is served after the morning Safari and is a thorough treat with a selection of freshly baked breads made with timeless Kalahari recipes held by the locals.

Smiling staff who are always at the ready and offer wonderful selections of cooked breakfasts and creative and delicious cheeseboards. We chose a lovely table on the deck with a view of the endless desert and dusty waterhole. After breakfast one has time to relax and we chose to sit on the deck of our room and watch the game go by.

Lunch is an informal affair, and when one is ready, one makes their way to the Lodge deck and takes a table. The staff will offer you a variety of delicious sounding meals that are served with such grace and friendliness. High Tea was a treat we came to really look forward to. This is served on the deck in that late afternoon, and again charming staff begin to prepare the buffet table with a wonderful selection of sweet and savoury delicacies. Attentive staff took our coffee and tea order and announced that High Tea would soon be served.

A selection of delicious savoury and sweet treats was brought out and laid out neatly on a table. Goats cheese quiche, lamb meatballs in a wonderful sweet sauce and a host of other delectable. As we indulged in this delicious feast, a young gentleman came over and introduced himself as the front of house manager. I picked up his Turkish accent and he confided that it was his first day and had just arrived from Istanbul. It was also his first time in Africa. He seemed very overwhelmed by finding himself in such a remote area and that there were lions to be found as well ! After tea we were looking forward to our afternoon/evening Safari with Kalamari and Ben. On returning from an exciting Safari we went to freshen up and prepare for dinner with a good appetite after driving around the Kalahari.

What we liked about the dining area was its informal but Kalahari chique style. We chose an outside table on the deck overlooking the desert. A magnificent sun set further prepared us for a much-anticipated dinner. Without having to ask, our waiter brought a bottle of wine of my wife’s choice as well as my preferred beer! Our Turkish friend immediately welcomed us and asked with fascination about what animals we had seen. He was quite fascinated as we relayed our encounter with a large pack of wild dogs on the hunt. The lodge manager came to join us for a drink at our table as the sun set in its inimitable African style. The view of the stretching Kalahari was timeless. The manager outlined his daily life and past work experience. He had worked at many high-end lodges in Kruger, and this was his favourite.

After an interesting conversation he carried on with his duties. Our attentive waitress showed us the menu. A selection of starters was offered and my favourite main course, the Karoo lamb was available. Karoo lamb is fabled in Southern Africa for its tenderness and juicy flavours. Without asking we received fresh warm bread as well as a side of the most perfect French fries. This came with a bowl of the most delicious mayonnaise I had ever tasted. Creamy, just the right proportions of mustard, salt, and vinegar with a touch of lemon juice. It was such a treat to dip the fries into the mayonnaise as the Belgians love to do! I asked our manager friend for the recipe which he gave to us neatly typed out in a sealed envelope. After a sumptuous meal we were served the most delicious berry tart with fresh cream.

My wife who normally not a desert person could not resist it.

All of this was served in an elegant and unobtrusive way. We had a feeling that the staff really loved their work and the kindness and smiles went a long way to furthering our magical experience. Our last interaction of the evening was a young man who came to ask if we had enjoyed the evening. We gave all due compliments. On asking how long he had worked here, he replied he just returned from a stint in Kruger and was not feeling at home there. He said the sands started calling him and he left with a big smile.

The next evenings dinner was at the Boma. Kalamari asked if he could join us, and we accepted immediately. A large fire was burning in the centre of the Boma and the tables were laid out in a circle around the fire. There was a large buffet table with another barbeque going with a team of chefs watching carefully over their fare. With such a choice of excellent cuts of meat and fantastic selection of vegetarian sides prepared in South African style, we chose what we could manage. We spent a memorable evening with Kalamari and I realised that after quite a few hours together we had started forming a bond.

TARKUNI LODGE

For our last morning game drive, we asked Kalamari if we could see the exclusive Tarkuni Lodge which was once the private homestead of the Oppenheimer family.

He made the arrangements with the Tarkuni staff to expect us, and off we went again into the desert with or rangers’ navigational skills showing once again, where I would get lost a thousand times. En route, he pointed out their new home which they had built as a replacement to Tarkuni. It was quite stupendous in its quiet and elegant glory.

After a few twists and turns we arrive at Tarkuni to be met by a herd of large buffalo drinking at the resident waterhole. The Buffalo carefully monitored us as we exited the Land Rover and made our way along the wooden walkway. A magnificent building appeared with a large deck for al fresco meals and the wonderful thatch roofs that we became accustomed to.

A smiling lady welcomed us and offered us refreshments on the deck as we watched the buffalo. She then took us on a tour of this most luxurious and exclusive lodge. With five bedrooms it is perfect for a private family’s accommodation. One has a butler, cleaning staff, fully equipped kitchen preparing sumptuous meals and a private Land rover and ranger for the activities. After being most impressed, we said our farewells and made our way back to Motse for our last breakfast and check out.

FAREWELL TSWALU – THE GEM OF THE KALAHARI

The manager was on hand to check us out as we filled in the guest comments book and settled our gratuity to the staff.  Kalamari had already loaded our luggage in the Land Rover as we said our thanks and bid all farewell. A sense of sadness gripped me as we drove out as this had been such a most special and wonderful few days we had spent here.

Getting to know Kalamari and Ben, the lovely staff, the magnificent accommodation, the unbelievable game drives, and this most special place of our world the majestic Kalahari.

As we arrived at the airstrip the beautiful Pilatus was standing at the ready on the runway in its shining silver armour. We were slightly taken aback as we were told we would be the only passengers for the return flight private jet and all, which allowed us into the world of the extraordinarily rich for two hours !

We said our farewell to Kalamari and Ben promising to stay in touch. The Pilatus jets roared in preparation of the take off and as we jetted along the runway lifting off, I saw Kalamari standing tall and straight at the edge of the runway with his hand in salute to us , and off we went. I must say that this was another emotional moment that I figured out could only be the part of the magical energy and experience of this great and mystical place, the Kalahari.

Farewell Kalamari and thank you for showing us your great land.